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Guatemala : touching down


Contents

Keep in touch

Post
The Post Office has been privatized and the service much improved.
When sending mail home, the best way to ensure speedy delivery is to use the main post office (correos) in a provincial capital; this will also be the best place to send parcels. Post boxes are rare - you'll find them in the lobbies of big hotels and some tourist shops, but the best bet is to take mail to a past office. Generally, an airmail letter to the US takes about a week and to Europe from ten days to two weeks. Receiving mail is not generally a worry as long as you have a reliable address - many language schools and tour operators will hold mail for you. The Poste Restante (Lista de Corroes) system is no longer. Local telegrams cost US$0.50 for 20 words. Urgent telegrams are charged double the ordinary rate but are generally reliable within the country.
Bear in mind it's very expensive to send anything heavy home (around US$6 par 100g to Europe and US$4 to North America) through the standard post. Parcels over two kilograms may only be sent abroad from Guatemala City. All post Offices are normally closed Saturday and Sunday.

Phones
Telgua, the former state phone company, has branches throughout the country, but private communications offices and most cybercafés (which are very widespread in Guatemala) offer a much cheaper and more efficient service when you need to call abroad.
Call boxes are now wide-spread in urban areas; if you're going to be in Guatemala for a long stay, it's probably worth getting a local calling card (Telgua or Telefonica) as many call boxes don't accept cash. For international calls, try to get to a private communication business or go to a cybercafé that often have inexpensive rates and may also offer webcalls, which are extremely cheap (rates start from US$0.15 to the US and Canada, US$0.25 to the EU and a little more to the rest of the world). As a last resort, call from a Telgua office, which can work out very expensive, or your hotel.
Taking a telephone charge card or calling card with you is another option. Most North
American cards work in Guatemala: AT&T, MCI, Sprint, Canada Direct and long-distance companies all enable their customers to make credit-card calls while overseas. Call your company's customer-service line to find out if they provide service from Guatemala and, if so, what the toll-free access code is. Calls made from overseas will automatically be billed to your home number.
To make a collect call overseas (llamar por cobral), dial 147120 from a Telgua phone, though the system does not always function well for non-North American numbers. You should be able to send (and receive) a fax from most telecom offices and many cybercafés.

Email and the Internet
Web services are now very well-established in Guatemala. Connection speeds are generally very swift in the main urban centers but in more remote areas Guatemala's creaky power network can cause connection problems. You'll find cybercafés in virtually every town in Guatemala, and many villages. Rates vary considerably throughout the country: more competitive in Antigua, Quetzaltenango and Panajachel (where one finds over a dozen cybercafés) than elsewhere in most other towns. Virtually all language schools are online, and many offer their students discount Internet rates upon enrolment.
It's also becoming increasingly easy to reserve hotels, tours and services via email, though few budget places are yet online.

Money

The Guatemalan currency, the quetzal (Q), is relatively stable (in mid-2007 the rate was Q7,60 to US$1). The US dollar is widely accepted, but euros and others foreign currencies are extremely difficult to change.
In most towns you will find several banks and ATMs (cajeros automaticos). All banks change dollars for quetzals and vice versa. After some turmoil in the banking system during the winter 2006-2007, the leading banks in Guatemala are now Banco Industrial and G&T Continental.
Banking hours are very convenient, with many staying open until 7pm from Monday to Friday, but closing at 1 pm on Saturdays. You may not always be able to exchange money after 5.30pm in some places, however, even though the bank is open. As far as possible, avoid the Saturdays and the market days.
Visa is slightly more widely accepted, though MasterCard is catching up quickly. American Express cards are rarely accepted. Virtually all towns and many gas (petrol) stations have a cash point (ATM), or you can use your card to get cash over the counter at banks.
Credit cards are becoming increasingly useful in Guatemala, though you shouldn't expect to be able to use them as you would in North America or Europe. They are accepted in most up market hotels and restaurants, but you won't be able to pay for your comedor meal or pension bill with plastic. Beware expensive surcharges if you do want to pay by credit card.
Travellers' cheques are a safe way to bring money, though their usefulness is constrained by bank opening hours. It's essential to purchase US dollar cheques - other currencies are almost impossible to cash. Visa-branded cheques are the most widely accepted, as well as MasterCard’s. You will be asked for your passport and sometimes your proof of purchase when cashing travellers' cheques; also make sure to keep the purchase agreement and a record of cheque serial numbers separate from the cheques themselves.
Having money wired from home is never convenient or cheap, and should be considered a last resort. Western Union is widely established. It's also possible to have money wired directly from a bank in your home country to a bank in Guatemala, although this is somewhat less reliable because it involves two separate institutions.

By European or North American standards the cost of living in Guatemala is very low but things are more expensive in regions where the local economy is tourist-driven (Antigua, Chichicastenango, Flores…), though even in these places there are some inexpensive places to stay, and it's possible to keep to a reasonable budget.
If you're after some comfort (traveling by shuttle bus and staying in rooms with a bathroom) you can expect to spend around US$210 per person per week, if you're traveling as a couple, while solo travellers should reckon on US$320 a week. For US$40-50 per day you can expect to live quite well. A basic single room (or a dorm bed) costs anything from US$4 to US$8, a double US$6 to US$12. Food prices don't vary quite as much as you might expect; eating a filling meal in a simple comedor will cost around US$3 anywhere in the country, while in a smarter restaurant you can expect to pay twice or thrice that price.
Transport is probably the greatest bargain, providing you stick to the "chicken buses", which charge around US$1 an hour. Of course you get what you pay for - these buses are always crowded, slow and rudimentary in the extreme - though they can be a lot of fun. There are also “1st class” buses: some are excellent, though these only serve the main highways. Traveling by car is expensive, and the cost of renting a car (from US$45 a day) is affected by accident penalty costs (sometimes over US$1000) and, of course, the cost of fuel (more than US$3.50 a gallon).


Safety and behaviour

Some embassies tend to exaggerate the dangers in Guatemala, even though millions of tourists visit the country without having the slightest problem. Guatemala is not a more dangerous country than any other in Latin America.


Sensible travellers should not encounter difficulties. The following tips are meant to forewarn, but not alarm, you. Keep all your documents secure. Do not expose high value goods (jewels, expensive cameras…) or carry lots of money with you. Lock your luggage. If possible travel by day, especially on secondary roads. And if going to very isolated areas it may be wise to ask up-to-date local advice prior to travelling.
The main risk is the theft of your belongings, particularly in crowded places such as markets or bus stations, so always watch your bags and hide your main cash supply under your clothes.

There is a natural prejudice in all countries against travelers who ignore personal hygiene and have a generally dirty and unkempt appearance. Most Latin Americans, if they can afford it, devote great care to their clothes and appearance; it is appreciated if visitors do likewise. How you dress is mostly how people will judge you. Buying clothing locally can help you look less like a tourist wearing traditional clothes bought on markets can be considered as very disrespectful by indigenous populations. The Mayas are reluctant to show their skin, so dress simply and quietly.


Remember that courtesy and politeness - even a little ceremoniousness - is much appreciated. Men should always remove any headgear and “con permiso” when entering offices, and be prepared to shake hands (this is much more common in Latin America than in Europe or North America); always say 'Buenos días" before midday, or “Buenas tardes” and wait for a reply before proceeding further. Always remember that the traveller from abroad has enjoyed greater advantages in life than most Latin American people, and should be friendly and courteous in consequence. Never be impatient; do not criticize situations in public: the officials may know more English than you think and they can certainly interpret gestures and facial expressions. Be judicious about discussing politics with strangers especially in Guatemala, where civil war is a very vivid memory (ceasefire between government and URNG forces was signed in 1996).

In commercial transactions (such as buying a meal or goods in a shop) politeness should be accompanied by firmness, and always ask the price first.

Politeness should also be extended to street traders; saying "No, gracias" with a smile is better than an arrogant dismissal. Whether you give money to beggars is a personal matter, but your decision should be influenced by whether a person is begging out of need or trying to cash in on the tourist trail. In the former case, local people giving may provide an indication. Giving money to children is a separate issue, upon which most agree: don't do it. There are occasions where giving food in a restaurant may be appropriate, but first inform you of local practice.


Always ask permission before photographing people. Film prices vary but are not much different from Europe. Film can be bought cheaply in the USA. Slide film is difficult to find. Kodachrome is almost impossible to buy, and Fuji Film is less easy to find than Kodak in Central America. Some travellers (but not all) have advised against mailing exposed films home; either take them with you, or have them developed, once you have checked the laboratory's quality. Note that postal authorities may use less sensitive equipment for X-ray screening than the airports do. Western camera shops sell double lead-lined bags which will protect new and used film from X-rays.


Opening hours and public holidays

Guatemalan opening hours are subject to local variations, but in general most offices, shops, post offices and museums are open between 8.30am and 5-6pm, though some take an hour or so break for lunch.
Banking hours are very convenient, with many staying open until 7pm (and some as late as 8pm) from Monday to Friday, but closing at 1 pm on Saturdays.
Archeological sites are open every day, usually from 8am to 5pm, though Tikal is open from 6am to 6pm.


Principal public holidays, when almost all businesses close down are listed below, but each village or town will also have its own fiestas or saints' days when most places will be shut.

January 1 New Year's Day
Semana Santa The four days of Holy Week leading up to Easter
May 1 Labour Day
June 30 Army Day, anniversary of the 1871 revolution
August 15 Guatemala City fiesta (Guatemala City only)
September 15 Independence
October 12 Discovery of America (only banks close)
October 20 Revolution Day
November 1 All Saints' Day
December 24 Christmas Eve (from noon)
December 25 Christmas
December 31 New Year's Eve (from noon)


Eating & drinking

Food in Guatemala is really affordable; all the expensive restaurants are in Guatemala Ciudad.
Usually you find restaurants in cities and comedors in villages. Comedors offer big portions of local food at inexpensive prices, but don’t expect a large choice of dishes. Restaurants are slightly more formal and expensive and you can easily find European and Asian cuisines in tourist places (Antigua, Panajachel…).
If no other choice you may find useful to eat in a fast-food joint (in towns and on highways) modelled on the American originals and often owned by the same companies. Nevertheless Pollo Campero is a genuine Guatemalan fast-food company that makes the pride of the locals.
The street food stalls clustered around the marketplaces may be attractive but we advise you not to try their food because they generally lack of hygiene.

Broadly speaking, the basics of Guatemalan menu revolve around tortillas, meat, eggs and beans except on the Caribbean coast (where seafood, coconut and plantain dominate).
Traditional Latin-American/Mexican food is found everywhere but with a milder bias (spices are always aside): tacos, burritos, guacamole (avocado mashed with onion and spices)...
Tostada and enchilada (fried tortillas topped with guacamole or cheese or minced meat) are quite a nice treat when not very hungry. Another very common snack is the tamal, a pudding- like cornmeal package sometimes stuffed with chicken or another bit of meat.It's wrapped in a plantain leaf and then boiled. The chuchito is a smaller version of the tamal, which tends to include a bit of tomato and a pinch of hot chili.
The pupusa is a fresh tortilla filled with leftovers but usually very filling. You better have some chiles rellenos (sweet peppers stuffed with minced beef and vegetables), it’s very delicious.
But the influence of the United States and Europe is also strongly felt. Ladino-style food includes bistek (steak), hamburguesa and dishes like carne adobado (grilled pork marinated with tomato and spices), all of which are readily available in most Guatemalan towns, with rice and fries (chips). In fact Guatemalan people are very found of meat especially chicken and beef: churrascos (charcoal-grilled meat) are often served with chirmol (sauce of tomato, onion and coriander).
As for chilies, they are sometimes placed rawor pickled in the middle of the table in a jar, but they're also served as a sauce - salsa picante. Their strength can vary tremendously, so treat them with caution until you know what you're dealing with.
Beans (frijoles) are the black kidney-shaped variety and are served in two ways: either volteados, which are boiled up, mashed, and then refried in a great dollop; or parados, which are boiled up whole, with a few slices of onion and garlic, and served in their own black juice.
They often go along with cheese (quite tasty) or cream.

You may also want to try some traditional local dishes, typical of the region where you are staying.
In the Highlands, many traditional Maya dishes are chunky soups or subtly spiced tomato-based stews (caldos) made with duck, beef, chicken or turkey. For example: pepian (spicy chicken stew) in Antigua, kak’ik (turkey broth with coriander and mint) in Coban, suban’ick (chicken and pork dish) in Chimaltenango… And if you visit Guatemala on the Day of the Dead (November 1), don’t miss the fiambre. It is widely prepared for families and friends who gather on this holiday, and consists of all kinds of meat fish, chicken, vegetables, eggs, cheese served as a salad with rice, beans etc.
Fishes (mojarra, robalo), usually fried or in a garlic sauce, are proposed near the lake Izabal, the lake Peten Itza, and near rivers. The ceviche is very popular on the coasts: it combines raw fish or seafood, tomato, onion, mint, coriander and lemon.
Garifuna cooking is another good reason to come to a halt in Puerto Barrios or Livingston: we strongly recommend the tapado (seafood soup with plantain and coconut milk) and the pan de coco.

Tropical fruits are everywhere (banana, mango, pineapple, papaya, watermelon…) along with more common fruits like apple, peach or grape. In the Highlands, try the zapote and the pitaya.
Pan dulce, in fact sweet bread, small cakes, biscuits are widely available (every village has its pasteleria).
Desserts tend to be very sweet: mole de platano (plantain served in a sweet, spiced cocoa-flavored sauce), torrejas (sweet bread soaked in egg and honey), buñuelos (similar to profiteroles served with hot cinnamon syrup), borracho (cake soaked in rum syrup before being iced), rellenitos (cooked mashed plantain, stuffed with sweetened beans and fried), chocobanano (iced banana dipped in chocolate), platanos fritos (fried plantain served with cream and sugar)…

To start off the day most Guatemalans drink a cup of hot coffee (usually served with plenty of sugar) but you may also have chocolate or tea. Atol, a warm, sweet and energizing drink made with maize or rice (or even plantain) and sugar is also very popular, especially in the highlands. At other times of day, soft drinks and beer are usually drunk with meals. Coca-Cola, Pepsi, Sprite and Fanta (all called aguas or gaseosas) are common, as are refrescos, thirst-quenching water-based drinks with a little fruit flavour added (try the rosa de Jamaica, the horchata and the tamarindo). In many places, you can also get a licuado, a delicious, thick, fruit-based drink with either milk or water added.
Tap water in the main towns is purified, however it's always safest to stick to bottled water (agua pura or agua mineral) which is almost always available.
Until 2002 one bland beer - Gallo - had an almost total monopoly in Guatemala. Then Brahva, a Brazilian brewer muscled in, adding some much needed variety. Gallo is a medium-strength lager-style beer. Brahva has a slightly spicy finish. Moza, a dark brew with a slight caramel flavor is worth trying but rarely available.
Other hard-to-come-by brands (all lagers) include the premium beer Montecarlo, Dorada and Cabra. Imported brands are scarce.
As for spirits, rum (ron) and aguardiente, a clear and lethal sugarcane spirit, are very popular and cheap. Ron Botran Añejo is decent rum, while the fabulously smooth Ron Zacapa Centenario (around US$25 a bottle) is one of the world's best: it regularly wins international prizes. Hard drinkers will soon get to know Quezalteca and Venado, two readily available aguardientes that fire up many a fiesta. If you're after a real bargain, then try locally brewed alcohol (chicha), which is practically given away. Its main ingredient can be anything: apple, cherry, sugarcane, peach, apricot and quince are just some of the more common varieties.
Wine is also made in Guatemala, from local fruits or imported concentrates. It's interesting to try, but for something really drinkable stick to the more expensive imports (Chilean wines).


Medias

Newspapers

Guatemala’s daily newspapers are more focused on national news than on international ones. We recommend the independent-minded Siglo Veintiuno (www.sigloxxi.com ), the popular Prensa Libre (www.prensalibre.com ) which features comprehensive national coverage and the forthright and outspoken El Periodico (www.elperiodico.com.gt ) which has some excellent investigative journalism, though can be tricky to find. Picture-rich tabloids such as Nuestro Diario and AI Día concentrate on the shocking stories of the day. In the Quetzaltenango area, the local Quetzalteco is a good read; it's published three days a week. And take a look at El Regional, a good weekly paper which is published in both Spanish and Maya languages.
As for the periodicals, La Cronicais a decent read, concentrating on current Guatemalan political affairs and business news with a smattering of foreign current events, as well as El Regional which is published in Antigua.
In theory, the nation's newspapers are not subject to restrictions, though pressures and threats are still exerted by criminal gangs, the military and those in authority. Being an investigative journalist in Guatemala is a dangerous profession, and there have been several contract killings in recent years.
There are several free booklets and newsletters aimed at the tourist. The Revue, produced in Antigua bi-weekly, is widely available and covers Antigua, Panajachel, Xela, Rio Dulce and Guatemala City, plus some of Belize, El Salvador and Honduras.It doesn't venture on political issues, but there's often some cultural or historical coverage, plus plenty of accommodation, restaurant and shopping advertisements. Guía Turística concerns Antigua, Atitlán, Tikal and Copan. In the Xela area, Entremundos (www.entremundos.org ) is an interesting free news sheet with articles about Guatemalan society and human rights and political issues; it's distributed in the city quite widely.
Guatemala News and Guatemala Weekly are English language newspapers, free and widely available in Guatemala City, Antigua and Panajachel.
For reliable, in-depth reporting, the Central America Report excels, with coverage of controversial news stories plus political analysis. It's published by Inforpress Centroamericana and is available by subscription only at www.inforpressca.com .The Report on Guatemala, published by Nisgua (subscription only, US$25 annually; www.nisgua.org ) and dealing mainly with human rights, is also recommended.
As for foreign publications, Newsweek and Time are available in quality bookstores around the country and in some luxury hotel gift shops. Some American newspapers are also available.

Radio and television
Guatemala has an abundance of radio stations, though variety is not their strong point. Most transmit a turgid stream of Latin pop, cheesy merengue, and reggaeton which you're sure to hear plenty of on the buses. There is a host of religious stations, too, broadcasting an onslaught of rabid evangelical lectures, services, "miracles", and so on. Try Radio Prisma on 89.7 FM for jazz and musica inglés (Western music) or La Marca on 94.1 FM for rock music. If you're visiting Guatemala City, it's worth twiddling your FM dial - there can be some interesting stuff broadcast over the capital's airwaves at weekends, including European techno.
Television stations are also in plentiful supply. Viewers can choose from several local channels - Canal 3 is good for news - and a multitude of cable stations, all of them dominated by American and Mexican programmes, either subtitled or dubbed into Spanish. Many hotel rooms have cable TV, which often includes English-language channels such as CNN or BBC.

 

More information available in the excellent Footprint  (Claire Boobbyer) and the Rough Guide (Iain Stewart) guidebooks.

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